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Thursday, December 20, 2007

The Hills Are Alive - In Wien



Let me begin with a big, fat SORRY, SORRY for the INEXCUSABLE blog DELINQUENCY. Okay, that’s done – let’s talk Vienna (Wien).
You can hardly help but to feel posh & sophisticated while in Vienna – so why not turn a year older while you’re at it? I had to say goodbye to my twenties at some point, so why not do it in style – Viennese-style. I was almost giddy to ring in the big 3-0 as I scooped up my apple strudel and hot cocoa so thick I had to eat it with a spoon (so much better than cake) Vienna brings out your inner snob – someone like me doesn’t need much coaxing, but really, it’s fun to live in the fairytale land that is Vienna – even if only for a day.

I’m not going to go on and on about a bunch of sites and museums – Vienna is made for strolling, window shopping, chocolate-eating, espresso-drinking and the strange urge to play the piano. The buildings throughout the city are majestic; so tall, so powerful, yet elegant and refined. Remember in sixth grade “social studies” they kept talking about the Hapsburg’s – the royal family that once ruled practically all of Europe, you know, Marie Antoinette’s peeps? While the Hapsburg’s may be long gone (well, I imagine there’s a royal bar-hopping heiress jet-setting about somewhere) the royal yester-year of Vienna is still alive and well. Select fancies such as Demel, the famed chocolate shop, are marked with the letters K.U.K, meaning that its quality and stature are fit for a King - (costs fit for a king as well). Gone were the days of deluxe dinners for $25 – in Vienna, a croissant, a plate of eggs and two espressos set us back nearly $40 USD. However, while the prices weren’t reminiscent of Poland, the underground cellars were. Who knew, Vienna also has a variety of underground establishments. The restaurant we went to for my birthday dinner, Brezel-Gwolb, shed some light on the subject – apparently, at least at that particular location, the cellar was once at street level – over the years, however, the city “grew-up”– leaving many places below the surface but still intact.
In the spirit of not getting too-touristy, it would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna’s “answer to Versailles,” the summer residence of the Hapsburg’s – must have been a rough childhood. We didn’t pay the admission to go inside – we were beat just walking the vast gardens of the palace. It was truly unbelievable.

So, as usual, I like to save the best for last. Forget about the espresso, elegant chocolate cakes and royal palaces scattered throughout an idyllic city for just a moment – the real charm of Vienna is found high above the city in the Wine Gardens, the Heurigen's. Imagine a cutesy, outdoor/indoor Bavarian beer garden – and replace the beer with freshly harvested wine from the hills of Vienna – Kirk may have managed to order a beer, but still, I couldn’t have been happier. We Heurigen-hopped by tram and bus high into the hills, I was convinced the bus wasn’t going to make it – just another near-death experience in Europe – what’s new. At the top – we were rewarded with an amazing evening view of the city below. Had I known, we would have started the Heurigan-hopping at noon. We just couldn’t get enough of the view and welcoming gardens (okay, and wine). Just when we thought we were on top of the world (well, top of Vienna, at least), Kirk noticed that the sign for the next Heurigen read “Berger,” one of my favorite wines that I often buy at home. I always knew it was an Austrian wine, but had no idea it was part of the Heurigen’s. We went inside and had some good old-fashioned (read, authentic) European fun. Tables were filled with locals that surely don’t give a hoot about K.U.K signs; dogs sleeping under tables; live music and, of course, lots of Berger wine. Leaving Vienna we couldn’t imagine that our vacation could be topped. Then again, we hadn’t yet arrived in Prague. . .


Also, just a note in case (most likely) we don’t finish our Prague entry before Christmas, we would like to wish you a Happy Holidays and Joyous New Year!