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Sunday, October 21, 2007

Berlin - The Former East has Risen


The two of us had both been to Germany before but we had never been to its capitol, Berlin. When we began planning our trip to "Eastern" Europe, I was intent to make a stop in Berlin. Although we did hours of planning our trip, neither of us were sure what to expect when we got there. What Americans typically think of when they think of Germany is its crowded beer halls, huge pretzels and polka music. But, that's an image of Bavaria, Berlin is nothing like that. Located in the Northeastern portion of Germany, Berlin is a gigantic metropolis that doesn't seem to end. The city itself is very old, but you wouldn't know it.

Much of Berlin was destroyed in World War II, and the former East Berlin was left to deteriorate for 40-some years under communist rule. However, it has been almost 20 years since the Wall fell and Berlin has exploded ever since. Berlin does not have a cozy cute feeling that many European cities do, it is huge and for the most part is fairly new. The city has an interesting mix, one street you feel like you're in Paris, then you feel like you're in Amsterdam, then you feel like you're in London.

All of this comes together to create a city that has been reborn and is still growing up. It seems like the entire city is under construction as gigantic cranes dominate the skyline.
The former East is where almost everything is now. Although we stayed in what was West Berlin, we spent almost all of our time in or around the former East. We were only there for 2 days but I think a minimum of 3 is required to get a good feel for the city. Berlin is a difficult city to describe but it was a highlight of our trip. The biggest problem with Berlin is its location. It isn't very close to any other hot spots, but take the time to see it - it is a must-see, must-return-to city.

We stayed at Pension Peter's - a cute little place that comes highly recommended. One trick I've found to enjoying a big city more is to find a place in your neighborhood and make it your own, even if it's only for a night or two. The little place we became "regulars" at was called Dicke Wirtin - a dark, smoky pub filled with locals. My favorite spot in the city was the Mitte area, it was the closest thing to that small and charming Europe feel we experienced while we were in Berlin. Near the Mitte area we discovered the Hackescher Markt - a series of 8 courtyards tucked away in the city - stuffed full of high-end boutiques, restaurants & cafes.
Again, it's areas like this that make a big city less daunting and even somewhat welcoming.

Interestingly enough, I learned that American tourists are the biggest seekers of the once iron wall that divided the city - but, American I am and intrigued I was. I still remember the day in sixth grade when my teacher said, "you are living history right now." It's weird to think back to my sixth grade self and now know that I have been to Berlin and seen the wall. I gives me an odd sense of accomplishment - even though I've done nothing that deserves any sort of accolades. Strange. I wonder if other American's get that same feeling here? Selfish as we are, probably.
While Berlin seemed to be a mix of several other places, it was still uniquely its own - and definitely worth going out of your way for.

Pictured:
Dicke Wirtin Pub
Street in the Mitte area
Room at Pension Peter's
Kirk at the Wall
Amsterdam looking courtyard at the Hackescher Markt
Brandenburg Gate

Other Sites/Eats & More:
Reishchstag (Berlin's Parliment)
dinner at George Bruhaus (brew pub, terrible beer)
Olympic Stadium
Alexander Platz (time square looking shopping center/business district)
Prenzlander Berg (hippie neighborhood - lots of punks with strollers)
Rocco (cute little cafe near the courtyards/Mitte)
Zeitos (Senor Frog-ish)
Puppy dog on the U-Bahn - cutest thing ever!

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